Tag Archives: diet

Dog Food and the hidden MSG

31 Jul

Obesity. It doubles a dog’s chances of developing cancer, heart disease, diabetes and a laundry list of other health problems.  Fifty percent (50%) of US dogs are overweight, and MSG – just one form of free glutamate – is a huge culprit.  MSG can triple a dog’s insulin levels making even the most physically active animals fat. It’s also a suspected neurotoxin.  And it litters our pet food supply under at least 12 different names.

If you see any of these ingredients on the label, put the bag back:

  • Any type of hydrolyzed protein (e.g. hydrolyzed vegetable protein)
  • Any type of protein isolate (e.g. soy protein isolate)
  • Any type of textured protein (e.g. textured vegetable protein)
  • Natural flavors or natural flavorings (e.g. natural beef flavor, natural chicken flavor, natural bacon flavor, natural cheese flavor, natural smoke flavor, etc.)
  • Autolyzed yeast
  • Hydrolyzed yeast
  • Yeast extracts or yeast nutrient or yeast food
  • Soy extracts
  • Soy concentrate
  • Sodium caseinate or calcium caseinate
  • Disodium inosinate or disodium guanylate (which are flavor enhancers effective only in the presence of MSG)
  • MSG (Monosodium Glutamate)
  • Monopotassium Glutamate
  • Glutamate, Glutamic Acid, or free glutamate

Do you know what’s REALLY in your dogs’ food?

Here is a list of other ingredients that OFTEN contain MSG or create MSG in processing:

  • Maltodextrin
  • Cararageenan
  • Protease
  • Citric Acid
  • Corn Starch
  • Gelatin
  • Pectin
  • Anything Ultra-Pasturized
  • Powdered Milk
  • Boullion
  • Malt Extract
  • Spices
  • Anything protein fortified
  • Anything enzyme modified
  • It’s also possible that proteinate or chelate indicates the presence of MSG (e.g. zinc proteinate)

MSG is a salt of glutamic acid, a non-essential amino acid.  A salt is simply a chemical formed by the interaction of an acid and a base – in this case sodium.  “Non-essential” simply means that the body is perfectly capable of making the amino acid on its own and doesn’t need to get it from food.  MSG occurs naturally in soybeans, seaweed (also called “kombu sea vegetable”), sugar beets, and sea tangles.

MSG is just one of several forms of free glutamate used in foods.  All of the forms are bad for your pet.  Glutamate is used by manufacturers to intensify flavors in meats, baked goods, and other foods.  Free glutamate is created when proteins are broken down.  The broken-down proteins then bond with the sodium that’s in the food to create MSG.

Consider what the FDA says about hydrolyzed protein:

“hydrolyzed proteins, used by the food industry to enhance flavor, are simply proteins that have been chemically broken apart into amino acids. The chemical breakdown of proteins may result in the formation of free glutamate that joins with free sodium to form MSG. In this case, the presence of MSG does not need to be disclosed on labeling.” [emphasis added]

Natural Flavors.  It’s the category most manufacturers use to mask MSG.  According to some reports, 80% of all “flavored” foodstuffs are MSG.
(Hungry for Change, full-length film.  http://vimeo.com/38632012)

It’s a misleading term and it should not be assumed that just because something is “natural” over “artificial” it’s somehow safer for us or our pets.  Anything that has been concocted by a physical process (e.g. solvent extraction, heating, enzyme action, distillation) from a plant or animal origin can be called a “natural flavor” regardless of the unavoidable but unintentional changes in the chemical structure that result. (A Consumer’s Dictionary of Food Additives, 7th edition. Ruth Winter, M.S.)

Take Hickory Smoke Compensate (HSC) for instance.  It’s a food flavoring popular in the US that has tumor initiating and promoting potential.  A medical university study induced cancerous lesions in rats with a diet consisting of 5% HSC.  The FDA has issued no warnings.

A word on proteinates and chelates.  We see proteinates and chelates on the labels for pet food very often as the source of trace minerals.  And they’re included in some very well respected brands.  We may see copper proteinate, zinc proteinate, iron proteinate or manganese proteinate on a label for instance.  Proteinate by definition is a compound of a protein.  Proteinated and chelated minerals are substances used in animal feed where the mineral has been combined with amino acids so as to improve absorption in the body.

The concern arises around the nature of those amino acids – specifically whether hydrolyzed protein was used as the source of that amino acid – thereby adding free glutamate or MSG into the mix.  If this is indeed the case, one could argue that the glutamate in mineral supplements is present in such minute quantities…  In any event, here’s one dog food company’s position on the matter:  http://www.natureslogic.com/faq/#faq3.   And no doubt, suppliers of animal feed supplements use MSG-catalyzing hydrolyzed proteins.  Here’s an example: http://www.chaitanyagroups.com/animal-feed-supplements.html.

 

Now on to the effects of MSG…

The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill found that people who use MSG are more likely to be overweight than people who do not use it, even though they have the same amount of physical activity and calorie intake.

The British Journal of Nutrition published a study which showed the ability to induce obesity in newborn mice via MSG to be nearly 100% reliable.   This news makes MSG intake for puppies especially concerning.

“Newborn mice were injected subcutaneously with 3 mg MSG/g bodyweight… 16% died before weaning. Of the survivors, 90% or more became markedly obese. Mean carcass lipid content was increased by about 120% in both sexes at 20-30 weeks old.”

 

In addition to obesity, MSG or glutamate is a suspected addictive neurotoxin that has been associated with chest pain, headaches, numbness, asthmatic reactions, brain damage (in rats, rabbits, chicks and monkeys), depression, irritability, and mood changes, reproductive dysfunction in males and females, nervous symptoms (decreased sensibility in neck, arms and back) and irregular heartbeat.  It’s also on the FDA’s list for further study for possible mutagenic teratogenic, subacute and reproductive effects.

MSG does not need to be in our pets’ food and shame on the manufacturers for putting it there in disguise as “natural flavors” and other things.  If the reasons above aren’t enough to strip this ingredient from our dogs’ food supply we should consider where it comes from.

China.  In all likelihood the glutamate dumped into the dog dish is coming from a country plagued with a toxic human food chain.  According to recent US census data, China is the third largest importer of this category of flavoring food additives (slightly behind India and Indonesia). (ttp://www.census.gov/foreign-trade/statistics/country/)

 

The flavorings market totals about $6-billion-a-year and leaches over 1,323 substances into our food supply just to make food more appealing.  The FDA by its own admission has inspected about 100 of the 190,000 foreign food plants.  At their current inspection rates, they would need 1900 years to inspect them all.[i] And those are just the ones producing food for human consumption.  There’s no one but us looking out for our pets.

Below is a short list of treats containing any of these Dirty Dozen likely aliases for free glutamate and MSG.  And if you see proteinate or chelate on an ingredients panel for pet food, it’s worth learning more from the manufacturer:

  • Beggin’ Strips
  • Beneful (Baked Delights and Snackin’ Slices)
  • Bil-Jac  (Training Biscuits, Gooberlicious)
  • Blue Buffalo (Blue Bits, Blue Bites, Blue Stix, Super Bars, Blue Bones, Wild Bites, Blue Wilderness Wild Bites)
  • Blue Dog Bakery (Doggie Paws, Softies, Super Stars, Live Well, bakery Bones, Perfect Trainers)
  • Buddy Biscuits (Soft and Chewy, Chewy Tricky Trainers)
  • Busy Bones
  • Canyon Creek Ranch
  • Carolina Prime
  • Cesar Treats
  • Dentastix (from Pedigree)
  • Gimborn Pro Treat Raw Naturals
  • Goodlife Recipe
  • Halo (Spot’s Chew)
  • Merrick (all flavors of the Sausage Dog Treats)
  • Milk Bones
  • Milo’s Kitchen
  • Mother Hubbard
  • Pedigree Good Bites
  • Pup-Peroni
  • Pur Luv (various treats like Healthy Support and fish recipe stix)
  • Purina Pro Plan (various treats including Roasted Slices)
  • Red Barn (Deli Stix, Naturals Natu-Rollies, Meat Filled Bones, peanut butter filled hooves, cheese and bacon filled hooves,  Fetchers Dog Bully Stick Chews)
  • Real Meat Jerky Treats (Jerky Bites, Bitz, Long Stix, Large Bitz)
  • Solid Gold (Beef Jerky, Turkey Jerky, Lamb Jerky, Tiny Tots)
  • Snausages
  • T-Bonz
  • Waggin Train
  • Wellness (Wellbites)
  • Zukes   (Mini Bakes, Z-Bones, Mini Naturals, Jerky Naturals, Natural Purrz)

 

 

 

 

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Calculating a Dog Food Diet’s Protein, Fat, Carbs, and Fiber

12 Jun

It’s not always easy to figure out how much fat and other nutrients are really in the food you feed, whether it’s kibble, canned food, or a home-prepared raw or cooked diet. Here are some tips that can help.

Methods of Measurement
There are three different ways of measuring amounts of protein, fat, carbohydrates, and fiber in foods:

- Percentage of dry matter

- Percentage of calories (does not apply to fiber)

- Grams per 1,000 calories

Dry matter percentages are easiest to use for commercial foods. Grams per 1,000 calories or percentage of calories are simpler ways to measure nutrients in a homemade diet.

 

Commercial Foods
Pet food labels give you some, but not all, of the information you need in order to really know the nutritional composition of your dog’s diet.

- The percentages of protein, fat, and fiber shown on dog food labels are guaranteed minimums and maximums, NOT actual amounts. The real amount of fat in particular may be much higher than what is shown on the label of some canned and raw diets. If your dog needs a low-fat diet, look for products that are lower in calories than similar foods.

For more accurate information, contact the company that makes the food you’re interested in and ask them for a nutritional analysis showing the actual amount of protein, fat, fiber, ash, and moisture, as well as the number of calories in the food. Editor’s note: Some pet food makers (particularly small companies) may not have a complete nutritional analysis of their products. In our opinion, this reflects a lack of adequate research and investment in the product. When feeding a special needs dog, we’d look to a company who has this current information on hand.

- The percentage of carbohydrates is not included on most labels or nutritional analyses. To calculate the percentage of carbohydrates in a commercial diet, subtract the percentages of protein, fat, moisture, crude fiber (an indigestible part of carbohydrates), and ash from 100. This percentage may be shown as “nitgrogen-free extract (NFE)” on a nutritional analysis.

- Total dietary fiber is likely much higher than the crude fiber shown on the label. If dietary (soluble plus insoluble) fiber is not shown on a complete nutritional analysis, there is no way to calculate it.

Fresh Foods
When feeding a home-prepared diet comprised of fresh food ingredients, it can be a bit more challenging to calculate some of the nutrient values that you’d like to know when feeding a diabetic dog.

-To calculate the caloric content of the food, look up the ingredients or enter a recipe on NutritionData.com. The number of calories from protein, fat, and carbohydrates, along with the total calories, are given in the “calorie information” section, and the calorie percentages are shown in the “caloric ratio pyramid.”

-To calculate the grams of protein, fat, etc., per 1,000 calories, divide grams of any nutrient by total number of calories, then multiply by 1,000 to get grams per 1,000 kcal. For example, raw skinless chicken breast contains 6.5 grams of protein, 0.3 grams of fat, and 30.8 calories per ounce:

6.5 ÷ 30.8 x 1,000 = 211 grams of protein per 1,000 kcal

0.3 ÷ 30.8 x 1,000 = 9.7 grams of fat per 1,000 kcal (GFK)

=“as fed” versus “dry matter”
The percentages of protein, fat, etc., shown on a pet food label are expressed “as fed” – meaning, as the food is delivered in its package. Some percentage of the food is comprised of moisture (water), which of course contains no protein, fat, fiber, or other nutrients. Kibble generally contains about 10 percent moisture; wet foods (canned, frozen, or fresh)  contain as much as 80 percent or more moisture.

So, think about it: When a label says that a food contains
(for example) 4 percent fat, in order to really understand how much fat you are about to feed your dog, you also have to know how much moisture is in the food. What you really want to know is how much fat (in this example) is in the food part of the food  – the “dry matter.” Any serious discussion of nutrition, or comparison of dry and wet diets, then, requires the conversion of the nutrient values from “as fed” to  “dry matter.” Don’t worry; it sounds technical, but it’s easy to do.

-To calculate dry matter (DM) percentages, first determine the amount of dry matter by subtracting the percentage of moisture from 100. Then divide the “as fed” percentage by the amount of dry matter to get the dry matter percentage. For example, if a canned food has 75 percent moisture and 4 percent fat:

100 – 75 = 25 percent dry matter

4 ÷ 25 = 16 percent fat on a dry matter basis

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DIY: Liver and Potato Grain Free Dog Treats

11 Apr

Liver and Potato Grain Free Dog Treats

Making your own grain free dog treats is simple. Just because your dog is sensitive to grains, doesn’t mean you can’t make the treats he needs. You can always make substitutions to existing dog treat recipes, but with this yummy liver and potato recipe, who needs to!

Grain free dog treats are not just for dogs with dog food allergies. And even though liver dog treats are often associated with dog training, you can make this recipe any time, and for almost any dog.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb. liver
  • 1 egg
  • 2 tsp. garlic powder (not garlic salt)
  • 1 1/4 cup potato flakes
  • beef or chicken broth

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400° F
  2. Cut liver in to 1″ pieces. The size does not need to be accurate since you will be pureeing it. However, the smaller size helps aid the process.
  3. Place ingredients, liver through potato flakes, into a food processor.
  4. Pulse ingredients.
  5. Be ready to add the broth as needed to make the mixture spreadable into the pan. The consistency will be very thick.
  6. Pour into a greased 13 x 9 pan.
  7. Bake for 25 minutes.
  8. Let cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes.
  9. Use a knife to loosen, then invert pan and empty onto a wire rack.
  10. Let it cool completely before cutting.

Storage: Since these dog treats use liver, they will not last as long as other treats. I would recommend no longer than 3 days in a dog treat jar, 2 to 3 weeks in the refrigerator and 2 months in the freezer.

Tips & Techniques

  • You can easily use beef or chicken liver for this recipe. To intensify the meat flavor, be sure to use the same meat flavored broth as the type of liver you choose.
  • Potato flakes are just dehydrated potato, or better known as instant potatoes. What you should keep in mind is that your dog does not need the additional flavors, salt and artificial preservatives that some instant mashed potatoes contain. So, we recommend sticking to just potato flakes that you can find with the other grains and flours. Your best bet is a specialty grocery store or health food store.

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Feeding Your Dog Raw Eggs – Good Or Bad?

3 Apr

This is a great article from Dogs Naturally on feeding your canine raw eggs. Lots of good info; and you’ll see how easy it is to incorporate real food into your own dogs’ diets.

There are a lot of myths and misconceptions about raw feeding and it seems the poor egg is often dragged through the mud as a dangerous food for dogs. Opponents of eggs claim that they are too high in cholesterol, they pose a risk of salmonella and that they cause a biotin deficiency. To that, we say nonsense! Eggs are not only a cheap and safe source of raw food for your dog, they are one of the most complete and nutritious meals you can choose!

Here are the facts you need to know about eggs.

Eggs are a complete food source – Eggs are an important source of nutrition for not only many predators, but for the chick living inside it.  Inside the egg are all the nutrients necessary to grow a new chicken.  Eggs are also one of the most complete sources of amino acids, the building blocks of protein.  Eggs are a good source of:

Vitamin A
Riboflavin
Folate
Vitamin B12
Iron
Selenium
Fatty Acids

Egg whites contain enzyme inhibitors – One of the reasons pet owners are warned off eggs is that the whites contain enzyme inhibitors which can interfere with digestion, especially in very young and old animals.  This is true, but it only means that eggs should not be the mainstay of the diet.  It is perfectly safe to feed several eggs a week to the average dog.  If you don’t see evidence of digestive upset when feeding eggs to dogs, then he should have no trouble if eggs are a regular part of his diet.  Cooking the egg white could solve this problem but much of the nutrition would be lost so it is best to feed it raw.

Egg whites cause Biotin deficiency – Egg whites contain avidin, a Biotin (one of the B vitamins) inhibitor.  Biotin is one of the B vitamins and is important for cellular growth, fatty acid metabolism and good skin and coat.  Biotin deficiencies are quite rare and it would take an extraordinary amount of eggs to create a deficiency.  Moreover, egg yolks are very high in biotin, so as long as you feed the entire egg, there are few worries.  There are other sources of biotin in the diet as well.  Liver is a particularly good source.  Once again, cooking the egg white will eliminate the risk but your dog will lose much of the nutritional value.  If feeding your dog eggs on a regular basis, simply make sure he gets the whole egg, not just the white.

Eggs contain salmonella – Dogs are well equipped to handle the bacteria in raw foods.  The health of the hen is also important, so it is best to choose eggs from organic, free-range chickens.  Proper storage and keeping the eggs cool will also go a long way toward keeping the harmful bacteria at a manageable level.

Don’t forget the shells – If eggs are fed with the shell on, they are a nearly complete food source for dogs.  The shells can also be valuable for dogs who have difficulty eating bones.  Simply dry the shells out and grind them in a clean coffee grinder until they are powdered and sprinkle the powder on your dog’s food.  It’s important to remember that many eggs are sprayed with a chemical to make them look shiny, so it is best to get your eggs from a local organic farmer.

Eggs are cheap, easily obtained and an outstanding source of nutrition for your dog.  The overall consensus with raw feeders is that the health benefits of eggs certainly outweigh the risks – and feeding eggs whole, the way nature intended, goes a long ways to counteract harmful imbalances.  Try feeding your dogs a few eggs a week and he will you’ll see better health, inside and out.

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Is L-carnitine beneficial in ‘diet’ petfoods?

5 Sep

I love how human nutrition, can often parallel to canine nutrition.

This is probably why I have such a huge interest in Logan’s diet and try to get my hands on anything I can read in depth on the topic, including staying up to date on the pet food industry.

L-carnitine is a huge buzz word in the nutrition, specifically dieting world, so when I saw it pop up in a recent ‘diet’ pet food article, it caught my attention instantly.  Acetyl l-carnitine is the acetylated form of the amino acid carnitine and, like carnitine, it is an essential compound in the metabolism of fat. The two compounds are often referred to interchangeably. Because of its role in stimulating the use of fat for energy, acetyl l-carnitine has become popular as a weight-loss supplement. However, there is little scientific evidence to support these claims.

 In 2000, the “Canadian Journal of Applied Physiology” published the results of a study that looked at the effectiveness of weight-loss supplements, including acetyl l-carnitine. The research concluded that, despite its role in fat metabolism, there is little credible scientific evidence that acetyl l-carnitine increases weight loss. Another study found that overweight women who supplemented with acetyl l-carnitine while taking part in aerobic exercise for eight weeks did not lose any more weight than women taking a placebo.

Is L-carnitine beneficial in ‘diet’ pet foods?

Home feeding studies would help determine if this ingredient is a practical tool for combating pet obesity

L-carnitine is a supplemental amino acid (ingredient) commonly found in low-fat, “light” or so-called diet foods for both dogs and cats. For the most part, the body produces an adequate amount of carnitine (L-isomer metabolite) to fulfill its role in the conversion of fatty acids into usable energy. So, what do we know about supplemental L-carnitine? Does adding it to the diet benefit weight control?

Though L-carnitine may be a relatively new ingredient to most pet food purchasers, carnitine has been recognized for more than a century. It was first isolated from meat extracts (thus the Latin prefix carni) in 1905 and a few years later was shown to be a growth factor for the meal worm (Tenebria molitor) for which it was subsequently branded vitamin BT. Given that most mammals are able to produce carnitine in sufficient quantities, it never became a full-fledged vitamin. However, there are times when it may be beneficial or even conditionally essential.

Carnitine is a quaternary amine (beta-hydroxy-gamma-trimethylammonium butyrate) that is synthesized in the liver and kidney using peptide bound lysine as a starting material. The peptidyllysine is then methylated by three methionines to form trimethyllysine, which is cleaved apart by an ascorbic acid dependent hydroxylation to yield carnitine (the L-isomer). Coenzymes and cofactors such as nicotinamide, vitamin B6, and iron are also involved. This resulting compound is hygroscopic and readily soluble in water. It can be found in the circulation, major organs and muscle as both free carnitine and esterified to various acyl compounds.

Because carnitine is stored in muscle, the food sources with highest concentrations are meats. For example, beef and lamb levels are reported at approximately 600 to 2,000 mg/kg, chicken at about 50 to 100 mg/kg and organ meats like kidney and liver at approximately 20 mg/kg carnitine (Mitchell, 1978). Carnitine concentrations are much lower in milk, vegetables, nuts and yeast (about 5 to 20 mg/kg). Bioavailability of carnitine from the diet ranges from the mid 50% to 80% and is somewhat dependent on the adaptation of the individual to the dietary carnitine source.

Supplementation with commercially produced L-carnitine is available to make up for gaps after accounting for endogenous production, conservation by the kidney and dietary sources. Unlike endogenous production, commercial chemical synthesis produces an all-racemic mixture of D- and L-carnitine. Only the L stereoisomer can be utilized for beneficial purposes; the D-isomer can cause serious side effects. Thus, modern chemistry hasn’t been the answer for commercial production of this compound.

Instead, virtually all commercial L-carnitine is derived from fermentation by specially selected bacteria (e.g., US Patent No. 5,028,538). The resulting L-carnitine ingredient is a white crystalline powder or granule and is generally available (per definition) as 97% L-carnitine with a stated maximum amount of the D-isomer of less than 0.5%.

What purpose does carnitine serve? Long-chain fatty acids cannot directly enter into the mitochondria for conversion into energy. They require a special transporter or shuttle. That shuttle is carnitine.

The first step in shuttling the fatty acid into the mitochondria starts in the cell cytoplasm where the “free” fatty acid gets connected to coenzyme A in a thiolase catalyzed reaction. Then a specialized acyl-transferase exchanges the CoA moiety for a carnitine to form a fatty acyl-carnitine. In this form, carnitine ferries the long-chain fatty acids into the mitochondria for utilization via beta-oxidation. A separate acyl-transferase is then required for transport of carnitine and spent acyl compounds back out of the mitochondria and into the cell cytoplasm.

Because of this ability to improve the utilization of fatty acids for energy and shuttle spent compounds out of the mitochondria, supplemental L-carnitine has found a number of applications in medicine:

  • Hemodialysis in late stage kidney failure;
  • Improvements to male fertility;
  • Improvements to insulin sensitivity in type II diabetics;
  • Fortification of parenteral neonatal formulas; and
  • Retention of cognitive function associated with Alzheimer’s disease.

In dogs, L-carnitine supplementation has been supportive in rare carnitine synthesis disorders and extreme working conditions. However, no dietary requirement for carnitine has been identified for dogs or cats under normal physiological conditions.

Given that carnitine supports the oxidation of fatty acids, its use in “light” or “weight loss” diets is based on the hypothesis that L-carnitine supplementation “stimulates” fatty acid oxidation without compromising muscle mass. Several studies seem to support this position.

Gross et al. (1998) reported that obese Beagles fed a calorie restricted diet supplemented with 300 ppm L-carnitine retained greater lean body mass. In a similar fashion, obese Beagles lost more body fat than controls when supplemented with 50 and 100 ppm L-carnitine (Sunvold et al., 1999).

For obese cats, supplementation with 250 mg L-carnitine led to more rapid weight loss without adverse effects (Center et al., 2000). So, while not required per se, L-carnitine may provide benefits under the right conditions.

L-carnitine is permitted in complete dog foods at levels up to 750 ppm and in complete cat foods at levels up to 1,000 ppm. Since it is a pricey ingredient, the amount used in foods is more in line with the “diet” research (approximately 100 to 300 ppm). At these levels it appears that supplemental L-carnitine is effective in weight management petfoods under controlled conditions. Confirmation in home feeding studies will help determine if it is a practical tool for combating the long-term obesity issues faced by today’s pets.

Since it is a pricey ingredient, the amount used in foods is more in line with the “diet” research.

 

My question: I wonder who’s funding this ‘study’. *Pharma?!

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Fruits & Veggies, Oh My! The List of Dog Friendly Foods

25 Jul

An apple a day keeps the doctor away. This is true, not only for you, but for your companion animals too. In
fact, providing your dog or cat with a variety of nutrient-dense fruits and vegetables can help him live a
healthier, longer life, even reducing the risk of certain diseases, including cancer.
Choose orange, red, yellow, and other brightly colored fruits and vegetables to support your animal
companions’ daily diet. Buy organic produce whenever possible, and say “no” to dyed, waxed, irradiated and
genetically engineered items. This is particularly important because the skin on fruits and vegetables is
usually the most concentrated source of nutrients, so you don’t want to have to remove it.


Our animals do not have the necessary enzymes to break down cellulose walls, which are indigestible
carbohydrates found in the outer layers of fruits and vegetables like apples, broccoli, green beans, and
carrots. We have to break down the walls for them, so these power-packed foods become as bio-available
as possible. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways:

• A food processor, blender, or grinder can quickly create a wonderful purée for your feline and canine
family members. Most fruits just need a fast spin in a processor.

• Cooking and steaming vegetables will also break down the cellulose walls.

• Juicing produces lots of fantastic pulp. Visit your local organic juice bar or health food store, and ask if
you can have some of their extra pulp. The pulp freezes beautifully, so you always have something on
hand when you can’t do the work yourself, and you can use it as a base for wonderful frozen treats and
biscuits.

The following ten fruits and vegetables are major players when it comes to the health and well being
of our feline and canine family members:

1. Carrots
The carrot is one of the kings of the vegetable patch. There are over 100 varieties, from deep purple and
white to the brilliant orange we are most accustomed to. Each is a storehouse of nutrient power that’s good
for our canine and feline friends. Carrots contain pro-vitamin A (beta-carotene), vitamins B, C, D, E and K,
riboflavin, niacin, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, sodium, iron, magnesium, manganese, sulphur, copper,
and iodine. They support the immune system, aid digestion, and are also recognized as a glandular tonic,
skin cleanser & eye conditioner.

2. Broccoli
Broccoli, a phyto nutrient-dense member of the cruciferous family, is a low glycemic vegetable king pin. This
means it does not cause a rapid rise in blood glucose levels. Broccoli contains lots of vitamin C and betacarotene,
as well as vitamins A and D. It is one of the most important cancer fighting vegetables. It contains
no fewer than three cancer protective biochemicals, including sulforaphane, which boosts the immune
system.

Other members of the cruciferous family include Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, rutabagas, kohlrabi,
bok choy, kale, Swiss chard, collards, and turnips. Clinical studies are currently examining the role of
cruciferous vegetables and their possible link to lower cancer rates.
Broccoli should be fed in moderation, because it can depress thyroid function if fed in large amounts. When
it comes to the cruciferous family, try cooked rather than raw, because cooking releases indole, a cancer
fighting enzyme.

3. Green Beans
Green beans are considered one of the world’s healthiest foods. They are an excellent source of vitamin A
because of their concentration of carotenoids, including beta-carotene. Green beans also include vitamins C
and K, calcium, copper, fiber, folic acid, iron, magnesium, manganese, niacin, phosphorus, potassium,
protein, riboflavin, thiamin, and Omega-3 fatty acids. Vitamin K stands out because it is important for
maintaining strong bones. Vitamin K-1 activates osteocalcin, the major non-collagen protein in bone, and
acts as an anchor for calcium molecules inside bones. Green beans are heart smart, too.

4. Pumpkin
If your canine or feline companion is experiencing occasional bouts of constipation or diarrhea, pureéd
pumpkin may be just what the doctor ordered. It’s a terrific stool softener, which makes it a perfect remedy
for constipation, often helping dogs or cats with an upset stomach or indigestion. Since pumpkin is very rich
in fiber, all you have to do is add one or two teaspoons to your animal’s food. The dietary fiber contained in
pumpkin absorbs water, so it is also a great remedy for diarrhea. If your cat or dog is a little bit on the rolypoly
side, pumpkin can help because it quickly creates a feeling of being full.

 

5. Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes are a great source of vitamin E. They also provide many other important nutrients, including
an abundance of vitamins A, B-6, and C, calcium, iron, folate, potassium, copper, thiamine, and iron. Sweet
potatoes are a complex carbohydrate and another example of a beta-carotene rich vegetable, which may be
a significant factor in reducing the risk of certain cancers. They are also a good source of dietary fiber and
help promote a healthy gastrointestinal system.
6. Tomato
Over 72 different studies have demonstrated that tomatoes have the ability to lower the risk of some kinds of
cancer. The secret to the tomato’s success is lycopene, the chemical that gives tomatoes their bright red
colour. Tomatoes that have been processed by cooking actually contain more lycopene, because cooking
breaks down the cellular walls, allowing carotenoids to be more concentrated. To make tomatoes even more
beneficial, add a little fat like cold pressed olive oil. This simple trick allows the lycopene to be even better
absorbed into the body. Along with lycopene, tomatoes are also an excellent source of vitamins A and C.
7. Apples
That simple apple a day, can be used in so many ways. Apples are the perfect training treat, and
applesauce is an ideal base for all kinds of biscuits as well as fruit and vegetable mixes for home cooked
and raw diets. One apple contains the equivalent of about 1,500 mg of vitamin C. Researchers have found
that red delicious, northern spy, and Ida red apples contain more potent disease fighting antioxidants than
other red apples. In fact, red delicious were shown to have higher antioxidant levels than seven other
varieties. Pectin, the fiber found in apple skins, is fermented in the intestines; this produces short-chain fatty
acids that help prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and support the cells of the intestinal lining, making
apples yet another excellent cancer fighting food. Keep in mind, that organic apples may contain around one
-third more antioxidants than regular apples.

8. Blueberries and Cranberries
Scientists from the USDA have discovered that blueberries and cranberries contain significant levels of resveratrol, a natural compound found to have anti-cancer qualities and is also believed to reduce the risk of heart disease. Blueberries are mini powerhouses of antioxidants.
These antioxidants come from anthocyanins, the pigments that give blueberries their deep blue color. Like
cranberries, blueberries help prevent urinary tract infections because they contain condensed tannins, the
compounds responsible for keeping bacteria from attaching to the wall of the bladder. A sprinkle a day
keeps UTIs at bay.
9. Cantaloupe
Cantaloupes belong to the same family as the cucumber, squash, and pumpkin. They are an excellent
source of vitamin A due to their very high concentration of beta-carotene, and help support good vision.
Cantaloupe is also a good source of vitamin B-6, vitamin C, fiber, folate, niacin, and potassium. Cantaloupe
is considered an especially safe fruit because it is not commonly allergenic, and doesn’t contain measurable
amounts of goitrogens, oxalates, purines, or pesticide residues.

10. Watermelon
The USDA Research Service has declared that watermelon packs a more powerful lycopene punch than tomatoes—40% more, that is! Watermelon also contains vitamins A, B-6, C, and thiamin.

 

Not all fruits and veggies are good for your animals. Here’s what to avoid or limit:

• Avoid onions. The American Journal of Veterinary Research has reported that onion induced oxidation
of canine red blood cells has caused severe reactions in some dogs, even those who consumed only
small amounts. A sensitive dog may develop Heinz-body anemia; symptoms include, lethargy, red urine,
and pale or bluish gums, especially with exercise.
• Grapes and raisins have the potential to be toxic to your canine companion. A bunch of grapes, or even
just a few raisins, can lead to acute renal failure. Pesticides, heavy metals, and fungal contaminants
have been ruled out as causal agents, so take extra care with this popular fruit. Symptoms of toxicity
include abdominal pain, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea.
• Spinach and Swiss chard contain oxalic acid, a compound that interferes with calcium absorption. Serve
them with care.
• Limit vegetables from the nightshade family, including eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes, as they can
aggravate inflammatory conditions, like arthritis. If your canine companion has arthritis, give papaya and
mango a try instead.

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Dinner time for Logan (the lucky canine)

24 Jun

Home cooked menu for this week includes:
CARBS
brown rice
sweet potato
handful of Carna4
FATS
fish oilPROTEINS
salmon
green tripe
sardines (in water)

FRUITS/VEGGIES
carrots
green & yellow beans
peas
blueberries
4 fresh Ontario strawberries

I want to hear from you — What is your dog currently eating?

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Home Cooked Dog Food – Is It The New Raw?

21 Mar

Many of you know my experiences with Logan’s sensitive stomach as sent me on a journey. From feeding him kibble, to raw. And now, I’ve given cooked food a good run, I’m ready to tell you all about it.

Raw feeding of dogs is a largely debated subject, but I fought through the facts & myths, and stuck with my guns; Logan did great on  raw diet. I did the complex shopping trips, I did my hours and hours of research, and even educated other about the complexities of a dog diet. We need to remember, that commercial dog food was invented for one reason and one reason only; to give us a dog that eats, and then poops. The in-and-out theory, as I like to call it. The fast paced lifestyle that many dog owners live, don’t allow for time of reason or digestion, and dog food companies saw that. So they produced a product that every dog owner has wished for. Your dog eats it, and then poops it out. Not only does this make a dog owner’s life easy, it also makes the bowel moments of a dog very predictable.

On the flip side. Your dog poops. What is he pooping out? The majority of it is probably his kibble.
Here’s a very interesting article on the dog food industry, written by the NY Times. Some of it is quite debatable.

Good rule of thumb: The larger your dog’s poop is, the less he’s absorbing.

Now, back to Logan’s story:
He did great on raw. His poo was down from being ’2 handfuls’, to a few little nuggets. Dry & odorless. He only pooped once, twice a day max. He gained about 14 lbs in a few months. His coat drastically improved. It really was incredible.
But the downfall? I live downtown. I live in an urbanite box, with very little fridge/freezer space. It definitely called for lengthy creative packaging, and weekly trips. And access to mass amounts of raw meat, was a tricky case. Like in most cases, buying bulk will significantly cute down on the cost. I’d spend an entire afternoon, visiting my favourite meat stores, trying to hunt down the places that could provide me with access to meat with the littlest amount of hormone in the chicken. This, was doubtful at times. Who really knows … especially living in the city.

While the concept of organic agriculture is gradually receiving broad acceptance, nothing in this integrity-based industry is more confusing than just what constitutes “organic” meat. Certain farmers are going to great lengths & expense to attempt to produce ‘certifiable’ organic meats. But there are many more products being marketed under the guise that they are ‘organic’, ‘natural’ or any other of the popular buzzwords, deceiving consumers like myself. No government, no Better Business Bureau, or consumer lobby has yet been able to bring order to the chaos.  Many butchers loosely use the words ‘all natural’, ‘organic’, but with very little backing or proof, we can only assume they’re being honest.

Then, to top it all off, Logan’s digestive issues were inconsistent. MOST of the time he was fine, but then there would be random outbursts, or, Poopageddon, as we call it in our home.
That alone, was enough to tell me raw wasn’t exactly the solution for Logan.

After much emotional debate, I decided to investigate cooked food. I have a larger than average understanding of food, including nutrients and ratios, so the learning curve was zero.
I know what I need to run like an energy machine, but what does Logan need? Almost the same!

1. Carbohydrates

2. Protein

3. Fats

4. Fruits/Veggies – not entirely necessary for a canine, but a great add-on

I was able to consult with Caryn, from Whatta Pup! who has an extensive background in dog nutrition. She was able to guide me on more stomach safe choices for Logan. We did one ingredient at a time, to help figure out EXACTLY what was causing Logan’s extreme stomach upsets.

1st Week:
As the transition period, we did hard boiled eggs in oats, with about a TBSP of cod liver oil, mixed in with about TBSP of plain yogurt.
This was a major culprit. Bad poops. Egg = BAD for Logan. I was actually excited to see this. It gave me a much clearer direction of where I was going with his diet.

Removed egg, added canned Tuna in water, drained, and substituted oats for brown rice.  Kept the cod liver oil, and yogurt.
His first poop on this mixture was awesome. We stuck with this for a couple of weeks, and his poo was a great size (small!), and hard. I was ecstatic!

3 rd Week:
Gave drained salmon (in water) a go .. brown rice, cod liver oil, and yogurt.
*Stomach doing fabulous – great poops!

4th Week:
Salmon, brown rice, code liver oil, and yogurt.
Added in a bit of sweet potato to the mixture.
*AWESOME POOPS & a very very happy dog.
Note to self: Sweet potato=orange poop!

5th Week:
Salmon, brown rice, cod liver oil, yogurt, sweet potato.
Added in a can of SARDINES.
*Logan went officially ape shit over this batch. He would pretty much do back-flips at this point.

NOTES:
- I’m now religiously warming up his food (microwave it for 45sec)  just so it’s bit warmer than room temperature, to ensure the cold food isn’t aggravating his sensitive stomach.
- Based on Logan’s weight/size and exercise level, he eats approx 2 heaping cups of the mixture in the AM, and approx 1.5c in the evening.
- Start simple. Add one ingredient at a time, give it a few days, before adding a new one.
TIP: If it’s on SALE, STOCK UP! I’m not rich, and a huge bargain hunter when it comes to food. I found canned tuna (in water ONLY) on sale at Shoppers Drug Mart for $1.29, so I bought 10 cans. Yesterday at Longo’s, Sardines (in water ONLY) was on sale for $1.49, so I stocked up on that, too. I purchase no-name slow cooked (not instant) rice, and I use a generic brand of cod liver oil. I found President’s Choice yogurt (I can buy the 3% as Logan could use the extra calories) on sale, so I also stocked up on that.

What do you feed your dog?
And what made you chose the option you did?

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The Raw Diaries: Mission Accomplished

3 Nov

I’m pleased to report to you all, my loyal readers, that we have once again fought and won against Poopageddon’s return.

I fasted Logan for the entire day yesterday (he was none-too-pleased), but it had to be done.

But he did get 1 cup of white rice, and 1 cup of the cooked beef/chicken ground mixture.
My hope was it would function as a binder, and help his “bad bum” situation.

I forgot to post this picture in my original post, but this is what the cupcake meat blobs look like frozen

Cooking the ground meat mixture; and yes, it smelt racid. (damn liver!)

I wanted to get it as well done as possible, so I left it, and it turned into a nice consistancy.

I took him for a really long walk before bedtime, hoping to get a poop outta him, but nothing.

I also didn’t get woken up in the middle of the night, so that was a good sign.

This morning, he got another 1 cup of cooked white rice, 1 cup of mixture .. then a nice walk, followed by a play at the park.
He had a poop there that was easy to pick up, but it wasn’t hard.
Mission accomplished. His digestive system seems to be okay now.

Enough poo talk.

 

 

Here’s Logan and Monty, who’s visiting today. They’re best buddies.

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The Raw Diaries: The Return of Poopageddon

2 Nov

Big news, everyone.

Over the course of the night, we’ve had what we called Poopageddon.

Basically, it’s when Logan has the biggest liquid craps you’ve ever seen in your life .. and it typically involves many piles of ‘it’.
Oh, Poopageddon also ONLY happens INSIDE of the house, usually in the middle of the night – duh, of course! ;)
Without getting into too many details *cough cough*, clean up has been simplified to a roll of good quality paper towels and the good ol’ plastic dustpan.

I will share my mighty wisdom with you. This is my very technical equation to clean up liquid messes of the poo form.

 

 

 

*Logan had a terrible tummy as a youngster so I’ve pretty much gotten the diarrhea scoop up down to an art (embarrassingly, enough)

 

Now, with this being said, his food schedule is now changing.
sigh/
I’m now going to cook up the remaining defroasted beef mixture, and will also make up a batch of plain white rice.

His meals will include about a good cup of white rice, and the same of cooked meat.

This should help settle his tummy over the next few days, until I sort things out.
I think I need to add more whole chicken (not ground) back into his diet – he doesn’t seem to be doing too well with all-ground.

 

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